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RAWCUT

Resoling 1,000 boots

In May the thousandth pair of Rawcut boots went back to its owner with a new sole. A look at the bench in Felgueiras and what a decade of wear does to leather.

Clara FonsecaRepair bench
Published
3 Jun 2026
Reading
7 min
Topic
Repair
Tan leather moc-toe boots with cuffed jeans, seen from above on weathered wood

Pair number 1,000 arrived in a shoebox from Leeds with a note: “Third winter. Left heel is gone. Please don't polish out the scuffs.” We didn't.

Single well-worn brown leather lace-up boot on a wooden plank
A Moc Toe Boot after four years: worn crepe, creased vamp, upper still sound.

Why welted boots can be resoled

A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather stitched to the upper, with the sole stitched to the welt. The sole can be cut off and replaced without touching the upper. Cemented boots, glued straight to the sole, usually can't. That is why we only make welted boots, and why we price resoles at cost: $85, shipping included.

Pairs resoled
1,000
Resole at cost
$85
Average turnaround
21 days
Resoles on one pair
3
The leather is just getting started at year four. It's the sole that gives up first, and soles are easy.
— Artur Moreira, Calçado Moreira

What we learned

  1. 1Crepe wedges wear fastest at the outside heel; we now ship a heel-plug option.
  2. 2Owners who condition twice a year send back uppers with almost no cracking.
  3. 3About one pair in forty needs a new welt too. We do it free.

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